Combine 3 women, 6 days, and the wild, wild west! As expected, there was an abundance of sharing, laughter, hiking, tequila, and natural beauty. Sedona will remind you — America is so beautiful!
We flew into Phoenix, picked up a rental SUV and drove 2 hours north to Sedona. First stop, fish tacos and margaritas! It’s important to maintain focus and keep objectives in mind. We’re here for all the good things — not just the hiking.
Our AirBnB house was perfect! Big common area, cozy fire place, and lots of windows from which to view the red rocks.
We were on Disney Lane and the former home site for Walt Disney’s house was just across from us. Our view from the back was Cathedral Rock which is generally believed to be the strongest of the vortex sites.
And the view from the front was a house with a giant portal to extraterrestrial forces perched up on the mountaintop. Located near Disney’s home in between the portal and Cathedral Rock confirmed we had made the perfect selection for housing. It was quiet but convenient — only about 10 minutes from the main highway.
Early the next morning, we savored huevos rancheros and delicious coffee while sitting in a lovely courtyard at Casa Sedona. Somehow, everything tasted better than it does back home. There was a peaceful aura and very chill vibe surrounding us.
Despite the weather forecast, the day was absolutely perfect for our first hike to the vortex site on Bell Rock.
Sedona has an interesting culture of fostering peace. There is a city ordinance restricting noise and light between 9 PM (some places say 10 PM) and 7 AM. All around town and in the rental homes there are reminders. It’s little surprise that there was very little live music and even that ended by 9 PM. There isn’t really a “bar culture.” People are expected to go home and be quiet. One evening we drove 60 miles south to Prescott, former capitol of Arizona Territory and a historic town known for its “wild, wild west” past. Around the town square there’s a row of saloons and brothels — originally 40 bars consecutively known as “Whiskey Row.” We went in the Palace Saloon, built in 1877, where a bunch of famous shoot-outs and knife fights with Doc Holliday, Wyatt Earp and his cousin, Virgil, took place .
The walls are covered with memorabilia. It’s hard for me to tell who the “good guys” were. Doc Holliday was a dentist, a gambler, and a friend of the Earps. Wyatt was a marshall and a gambler. It seems all the frontiersmen were a bit sketchy.
One day we drove 3 hours north to Antelope Canyon on Navajo land near Page, Arizona. The slot canyons have sandstone walls that look like waves . They’re carefully protected. The number of visitors are limited and a native guide is required so you need advanced reservations/tickets to enter.
Even though the pictures are incredible, they don’t convey the feeling one gets when standing small inside this completely natural, grand creation. The canyons were formed by water erosion and are between 8 and 60 million years old. We were very fortunate to walk through mid-day when beams of sunlight lit up the sides and fell all the way to the ground.
Not far from Antelope Canyon, we visited Horseshoe Bend where the Colorado River swirls around the red rocks making this beautiful formation. That’s the same river that formed the Grand Canyon about 130 miles south. It’s an easy 1.5 mile roundtrip hike to the observation point.
There were seemingly endless boutiques, cafes, and interesting places to pop in around Sedona. We took the opportunity one rainy/snowy day to make the breath-taking, twisty drive through Oak Creek Canyon to Flagstaff. Route 66 runs through the historic area which enhances the college town feel and retro mood.
For me, a highlight of the trip was the sharing — shared time, shared thoughts, shared experiences. I smile every time I think of watching the sunset from the vortex at Airport Mesa with my girlfriends. A storm was rolling in which added to the energy in the air swirling around us. Others were scampering down the summit while we were savoring Chardonnay, apples and cheese. If there was audio, you could hear us singing the Eagles, “Peaceful Easy Feeling.” These are the happy memories I make along the way; then hold on to forever after.
“Women’s friendships are like a newable source of energy.” Jane Fonda
“Friendship is the hardest thing in the world to explain. It’s not something you learn in school. But if you haven’t learned the meaning of friendship, you really haven’t learned anything.” Muhammad Ali
“The best gift anyone can give, I believe, is the gift of sharing themselves.” Oprah Winfrey
” … and then, I have nature and art and poetry, and if that is not enough, what is enough?” Vincent Willem van Gogh
It seems my road trip through the South of France was more about a mood than an itinerary. The mood was created by baguettes, cheese, wines, rolling hills, clear blue water, tiny towns with a church in the center, fields of lavender in full bloom, narrow, winding streets, outdoor cafes, and a prevailing sense of peacefulfness.
Arriving in Paris on the overnight flight from Atlanta, my niece and I wanted to stay awake in an effort to adjust to the time difference (six hour) as much as possible. Our gracious host took us on an afternoon outing to the palace of Fontainbleau.
The famous horseshoe entrance known as the Baptistry Gate was designed by Primaticcio and Henry IV. It was originally a drawbridge gate and moat but over the years the chateau was enlarged and modified many times. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site, it was originally constructed in the 12th century as a hunting lodge for the kings of France, but later became the primary home for kings and Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte (1769 — 1821). The Pope’s suite is gorgeous but unusual considering that the Pope declined an invitation to Napoleon’s coronation so he was kidnapped and brought against his will. Hearing about the various occupants and important events surrounding the chateau is a harsh reminder that the USA is so young compared to other countries throughout the world with their rich histories.
After a lovely breakfast of cafe au lait, croissants, and pieces of baguettes with homemade jam, I bid adieu to my sweet niece and left for an eight-day road trip through the South of France. My niece spent that time between Normandy and Paris with friends including French teenagers. My travel companion, Celine, and I rolled out of Paris in her hybrid Mini Cooper.
On the highway south, even the road signs sounded delicious — Dijon, Chablis, Burgundy. Our first stop was Beaune, in between Dijon and Lyon. Considered to be the wine capital of Burgundy, it was the perfect place to stroll around a while and have a delicious lunch complete with a glass of red wine. The town is well-known for the beautiful patterns on the roofs and for the annual wine auction.
Next stop was Valence, about 60 miles south of Lyon on the Rhone River. We were hoping to buy Ann-Sophie’s famous “pick of the day” treat but the shop was already closed.
Our stay for the first night was Avignon. It was Saturday, June 21st, the Summer Solstice, which is a national holiday, Fete de la Musique! All over the country, free music, bands and concerts spill out into the streets. After a delicious dinner on an elegant restaurant patio, we walked through the historic area that had a different band every block. The music may have gone on all night but we didn’t hear it through the thick walls of the Saint Louis Hotel, a former cloister, complete with a chapel and religious service on Sunday morning. Already, the trip was dreams coming true. No Holiday Inn in sight. The history, culture, and cool vibes were everywhere. Hearing the melodic French spoken all around me provided reassurance that I was in a new element, far from Virginia Beach.
Like most of our accommodations, a lovely breakfast in a garden was included which we enjoyed before going up to the swimming pool on the roof. It was over 90 degrees Fahrenheit every day so cooling off in a pool was welcomed. Very few places had air conditioning and that suited me fine.
Avignon is celebrating the 25th anniversary of its designation as the Cultural Capital of Europe and the 30th anniversary of its UNESCO inclusion. To celebrate, the artist Othonier was hired to highlight some of the main sites.
The huge castle in the middle of town is the Palais des Papes which was the home of the pope beginning with Pope Clement V in 1309 and continuing for 68 years. The museum had an interesting exhibit of Egyptian relics contrasted by bright sculptures by Othonier. That exhibit did for me what all of France does. It expertly blends the past with the present. Europe, in general, does so through art, architecture, history, customs, and cuisine.
Our next stop was in Les Baux-de-Provence for the immersive experience of Monet and Rousseau. The show was in caves way up in the mountains where the small village sits. It was the perfect way to spend some time on a hot afternoon.
Aix-en-Provence was our second overnight stay. Dinner was absolutely delightful at a 3rd generation restaurant called “O Pere” where we enjoyed beautiful drinks and food on the patio. My frozen mango with dark rum was perfect for the warm evening.
The next morning we toured an exhibition by Niki de Saint Phalle (1930 — 2002). It’s a very popular exhibit so we wisely got tickets in advance.
I had seen a couple pieces of her work in DC but it was really great learning about both the artist and her creative process. A French-American feminist, she wrote, “I’m not the person who can change society, except through showing some kind of vision, of this happy joyous dominating women. That’s all that I can do.”
To imagine what Aix-en-Provence is like, think of paintings by Paul Cezanne who was born there and lived there for most of his life. This particular day, June 23rd, was my birthday. Celine treated me to a fantastic lunch at Tableau Gastonomique, one of three restaurants in the Villa Galici hotel.
There was one table for an aperitif, chilled rose, then another for lunch; one course after another until I lost count. Each item was a treat for both the eyes and the mouth.
After lunch we strolled the historic area complete with designer shops and bought some callissons from Le Roi Rene. Legend has it that these delicious cookies were made by King Rene’s bakers as a gift to his wife, Queen Jeanne, on their wedding day back in the 15th century. Believed to have originated in Aix-en-Provence, the majority are still made in the South of France. The essential ingredients are ground almonds and candied fruit (melons and oranges) with a thin layer of royal icing. So delicious!
As wonderful as they are, to describe the South of France by towns seems quite unfair since the majority of it is open, completely without people or structures. The sky is so blue and the shifting light throughout the day projects beauty on the hills. It’s easy to see why so many artists were inspired here.
We drove through La Roque d’Antheron where there is an annual, month-long piano festival with outdoor concerts in the park of Chateau de Florans. Now on it’s 44th year, the very thought of pianos placed in a park with beautiful music filling the air sounds amazing.
The next two nights were spent with friends in the very small village of Rustrel. En route, we passed many fields of lavender — each one more beautiful than the one before.
To say there was no stop-light in Rustrel is an understatement. With a population of about 600, it has little besides a church and a 17th century chateau that now serves at Town Hall. But, it does have a small cafe/bakery that serves delicious croissants and coffee every morning.
The main attraction in this area is the orche — orange mineral deposits in the cliffs. If we had more time, I would have liked to hike in Le Colorado Provencal in the nearby National Park of Luberon. These pictures don’t do it justice but some areas are as orange as Georgia clay.
The next morning we drove the short distance to Saturnin les Apt for market day. Each of the small, neighboring towns has a different market day so you don’t have to go far to get fresh food daily.
We bought beautiful table cloths, place mats, and a cornucopia of fresh cheese, bread, tapenade, and vegetables. Add prosseco and it was the perfect lunch in synch with our mood.
After lunch we ventured to Gordes, one of the most beautiful and best-known hilltop villages in the Luberon. Situated in the foothills of the Mont of Vaucluse, overlooks from the narrow, cobblestone streets offer breath-take views of the landscape below. It’s no wonder that Marc Chagall and other noted artists came here to paint.
All the buildings have white stone facades and tile roofs. They blend so elegantly with each other and with the natural environment surrounding the town. Each town has it’s own rules on colors and building materials. In my humble opinion, it makes American city planning look tacky and without reason.
The Abbey de Senanques is the epitome of tranquility. It doesn’t shout, but rather whispers God’s glory. Founded in 1148, it’s still occupied by Cistercian monks. This was one of the many times that I felt like I was standing in a photo for a calendar or a puzzle.
It was almost too perfect to be real, yet, there I was … lost in a dream.
Saying goodbye to friends in Rustrel the next morning, we continued our road trip.
Our next stop was Grasse, a UNESCO World Heritage site and the perfume capital of the world, just 15 kilometers from Cannes.
All of the major perfume companies have a presence here. We toured one of the Fragonard factories.
Perhaps, I felt that way in every small town, but walking the streets in Grasse I remember thinking that it was my favorite. Some parts were a little touristy but it was easy to overlook that to see the historic beauty.
We took the free tour of the Musee de Provencal du Costume & du Bijou to see the gorgeous dresses from days gone by. There’s no question that attire is constantly changing and varies by location. After all, it’s one of the ways each generation expresses itself. But, it’s notable that I saw no one wearing jeans the entire time I was in France. There was a lot of linen and cotton, all loose fitting; no tight pants and no leggings. It may be a trend that will reach the U.S. before long but, perhaps not. Only time will tell.
Our accommodation this night was the expansive Domaine & Jardins de la Cascade Parfumee. Once owned by a childless, wealthy couple in the perfume industry, they hid 8 Jewish children during the roundtrip when 400 local children were taken to concentration camps. Later, it was used as a Red Cross hospital for children with tuberculosis. Only recently, a local couple renovated it into a luxurious bed & breakfast with 5 guest rooms and extensive gardens for aromatic flowers and fruit trees used to make perfume. There’s a natural spring of cold water. Half of the water is used for the house and the other half is used in the garden.
To add to the beauty, there was an infinity pool, a lap pool, and a jacuzzi pool. We took a late afternoon dip before dinner in nearby Cabris.
Like most places, the roads in Cabris are narrow, windy and not designed for American-size cars. Our SUVs, trucks, and even the regular cars, would be completely impractical in France as they wouldn’t fit on the roads or in the parking lots and the gas bill required to operate them would be huge.
Although we moved each day, I never felt rushed. The pace was easy with very few time commitments. Generally, we were up by about 7:30 AM and finished dinner about 9:00 PM. The objective of the trip was to explore and enjoy whatever we found in this special part of the world. As long as I kept the objective in mind, there was really nothing to worry about. The only time I turned on the news I saw that the U.S. had bombed Iran the night before. I didn’t check the news the rest of the trip.
Friday morning we drove the short way to Saint-Paul de Vence to visit the Maeght Foundation Museum and Gardens, the first private art foundation in France. Modeled after the Guggenheim, there were a lot of works by Joan Miro, Chagall, Giacometti and others. Chagall spent 19 years in Saint-Paul de Vence and is buried here.
Walking around the old town of Saint-Paul de Vence I, again, felt the modern art blending with the historic. It’s everywhere — not just in museums. This sculpture of a reclining woman was hanging between two buildings with no fanfare or acknowledgement.
After a perfectly delightful lunch, we endulged in a treat that I’m going to try to replicate — fruit that has been split open, the pit removed and the fruit portion blended with a small amount of cream then scooped back into the skin and frozen to make the most delicious and beautiful dessert. The peach and mango were my favorites.
After checking in to our hotel and preparing for the evening, we went to the stylish area of Juan les Pins, directly on the beach of the French Riviera (Cote d’Azur). Sometimes, it’s good to be lucky. Without reservations, we found an open table right on the sand at YOLO and had a magical dinner that I will remember for years to come. This photo was taken about 9:45 PM. The sun sets late. Eating dinner at 8:30 or later was customary.
Every morning we enjoyed fresh bread and cafe au lait or espresso. I ate so much delicious bread but I didn’t gain a pound; probably because of all the walking.
After breakfast we drove the short distance to Nice. Walking through different towns is, perhaps, my favorite part of travel. You get such a good feeling for the place and the people as they go about their day.
A hike up Castle Hill is essential. The cathedral was founded in the 11th century but the Greek settlement called Nikaia that was situated here goes back to the 4th century BC. The ruins, cemetery, and waterfall are worth the hike.
The monuments are proof that the beauty of the site was acknowledged by those inhabiting the earth way before us and will be celebrated by future generations long after we’re gone. It reminds me of our responsibility to preserve the earth for those who follow. At a minimum, we should refrain from destruction. Our time here is short.
While the man-made structures are interesting, the view looking down on the Riviera is the main attraction.
It’s only 20 kilometers from Nice to Monaco then just a hop to Italy. I took advantage of the strong Italian influence to dine on pasta with clams at a sidewalk cafe while we watched beautiful people walk by. Seriously, there were a lot of gorgeous people in stylish outfits that gave us a non-stop parade of life on the Riviera.
In Cannes we walked the cobble-stoned streets and alleys to reach the giant CANNES sign on the hill and to get a great view of the marina and beach below — so many huge yachts!
The giant CANNES sign reminded me of the HOLLYWOOD sign in Los Angeles.
The walk down took us to an area generally referred to as fisherman’s ward where the fishermen would stay when they were in port. Today, these homes are very chic and expensive.
The beautiful boardwalk called the Promenade des Anglais (English Promenade) in Nice stretches 7 kilometers. They were setting up for an Ironman competition when I was there.
We spent the night in Antibes, in between Nice and Cannes. Having dinner reservations at one of the many amazing restaurants is great but I also appreciate unplanned time for spontaneity and exploration. Our last night on the Riviera, I was happy to walk through the night market and get a light dinner from one of the many cafes. The entire time I was in France, I never had anything fried. I didn’t even notice it as an option. Everything was fresh and as natural as possible. We sat outside and listened to music played by street performers and small ensembles. It’s kind of funny hearing musicians who speak no English perform American music. There’s no question that our music is one of our greatest exports.
This statute really touched me. It’s a tribute to Nicolas de Stael (1914 — 1955), a Russian born artist who jumped to his death from the 11th floor of his apartment in Antibes. Although he was professionally successful, he suffered from insomnia, exhaustion, and depression. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it to the Picasso Museum at Antibes where his work is displayed along with other important artists. Making difficult decisions of what to visit and what to skip is part of traveling but always sends me home wanting to learn more about both the things I saw and the things I missed.
The drive to Lyon took us past a lot of small towns, each with its own identity. There was a demonstration in Apt to oppose the closing of the hospital. The local police acted irritated that we didn’t know about it. We had to detour around the entire town.
Among the towns that we didn’t have time to stop at this trip were Chateauneuf-du-Pape, renown for it’s expensive wine and Montelimal known for the creation of nougat candy. Also, Chauvet Cave, a World Heritage site with the world’s oldest cave paintings dating 31,000 years ago. And, Tain l’hermitage known for having good wines and superior apricots, peaches, nectarines and Valrhona chocolate favored by Parisian chefs. We passed the town of Annonay that was made famous by the invention of paper in the 17th century followed by the invention of the hot air balloon and the first hot air balloon flight by the Montgolfier brothers, the inventors. There’s so much history that goes back for centuries. It’s interesting learning how each town distinguishes itself.
Almost out of time, I took the high-speed train from Lyon to Paris, met up with my niece for a last night in France then flew home with new memories to cherish.
Getting on the train brought back a host of memories from my back-packing days the year after college — so long ago but still so strong in my heart. I’ve never regretted spending time or money on travel. I’m always glad to go then always glad to get back home. Travel is so important to my life and my humble attempt to understand how and where I fit in this beautiful world that I’m certain I wouldn’t be the same person without it’s influences. The experiences and friendships add immeasurable value and keep me interested in life. There’s no absolute right or wrong way for me — budget, luxury, solo, family, any version. Let me jump on a boat headed across the equator or meander through the small streets of a town I’ve never been to before. Along the way, I’ll remind myself, life is good; not perfect, but really good.
“If you want to keep your memories, you first have to live them.” Bob Dylan
“How can anyone govern a nation that has 240 different kinds of cheese?” Charles de Gaulle
“The French air clears up the brain and does good — a world of good.” Vincent Van Gogh
Iceland is a country of extremes. The week we were there in November 2024, the temperature never rose above freezing and hovered about 20 degrees Fahrenheit (-7 degrees Celsius). The sun rose about 11:00 AM and set about 3:30 PM but never got very high in the sky.
The day after we arrived, the volcano erupted and continues to shoot out fire and lava even now, ten days since it began . The seventh eruption of the year near the Sundhnuksgigaroo crater, news reports say it’s no threat to travelers but it overtook the parking lot of the famous Blue Lagoon forcing closure of the lagoon spa and evacuation of the hotel. At 1:00 AM hotel guests were awaken by an alarm and taken to the Expedition in Reykjavik which is where we stayed. Fifty homes in Grindavik were also evacuated. Here’s a photo taken from the highway on the way to the airport on November 25th. Drone views of the flowing lava crossing highways remind me of the power of nature that cannot be contained by man. Volcanoes formed Iceland and continue to shape it today. While the power to cross barriers and ignite homes is terrifying, it’s somehow simultaneously energizing.
I flew direct from Washington, DC and my son, Daniel, flew direct from Chicago; both were overnight flights on Iceland Air. We landed just 5 minutes apart and headed out to pick up our 4 x 4 Toyota Highlander from Hertz. That first rush of cold wind combined with the pitch dark at 7:30 AM was a real wake-up call. While not very far from the main terminal, there are very few signs and no shuttles. Thankfully, we always travel light with just a carry-on bag but right from the start I got the impression that this country is made for hardy people; sissies cannot survive these conditions. Trying to navigate the parking lots and walkways to the rental car office in darkness, cold, and wind was not a great welcome and begged the question, “Why does anyone live here?” It didn’t take long to find the answer. The next 6 days were filled with natural beauty and happy, friendly people.
The drive from the airport to Reykjavik is about an hour. We dropped our bags off at the hotel, got a coffee and croissant then went to Sky Lagoon about 10 minutes away. Again, everything was done in darkness which takes some getting used to and reinforced the thought that my body is strongly guided by solar rhythms. It takes faith to put on a bathing suit and walk outside but the new geothermal spa on the edge of the ocean was lovely once we convinced ourselves to do it. We got the 7-step Saman ritual that includes salt scrub, sauna, ice bath, and extras.
The only big city in Iceland, Reykjavik is 105 square miles with 300,000 people. The entire country is 39,768 square miles, about the size of Ohio, with a total population just under 400,000.
Locals seem very proud of their rainbow streets and welcoming attitude towards LGBTQ diversity. Reykjavik has hosted an annual Rainbow Pride Festival since 1999. It attracts up to 100,000 people from all over the world. I laugh looking at this photo when I see how red our noses are. The joy of exploring a new country was so poignant that even the cold was exciting.
The towering Hallgrimskirkja Lutheran Parish is the largest church and one of the tallest structures in the country. It provides the backdrop to Rainbow Street (aka Skólavörðustígur).
The first day seemed like two. The combination of time difference (5 hours from my home in Virginia and 6 hours from Texas), sleepless night en route, and limited hours of sun made the days seemed so odd; a strange kind of jet lag. We had to continually orient to know what day it was. The second day was spent on the Golden Circle. The drive time isn’t overwhelming and there are interesting stops about every 30 minutes or so. The full circle is about a 4 1/2 hour drive then add in however much time you take at various stops.
Our first significant stop on the Golden Circle was Pingvellir National Park, a recognized UNESCO World Heritage site. It has a trail that goes by the historic parliamentary sites where laws were made during the Commonwealth Era (930 – 1262). There’s an area where two tectonic plates come together to form a 7 km rift valley plus it has the country’s largest lake, Lake Pingvallavatn.
Further along the Golden Circle we stopped for the first of many waterfalls, crater lakes, and geysers. None of these photos have been color enhanced. The water is truly that clear and blue.
Below is a picture of the Kerid volcanic crater lake. There’s a walking path around the rim and another that goes down to the frozen lake.
For lunch we stopped at the tomato restaurant inside a huge greenhouse. The nursery and restaurant are owned and operated by a local family. Since the weather doesn’t allow fruits or vegetable farms without greenhouses this is both valuable produce and a tourist attraction. Tomatoes grown at this nursery provide approximately 2/3 of the tomatoes consumed in the country. It was interesting and inspirational but, in my humble opinion, the tomatoes lacked much flavor. Like John Denver said, “Only two things money can’t buy; that’s true love and home grown tomatoes.”
With daylight limited to about 4 hours each day, we tried to make the most of it and generally planned to get to our hotel by nightfall. The roads are quite good but I highly recommend getting a 4-wheel drive vehicle. I heard multiple stories about people getting charged by rental companies for windshield dings from flying rocks.
We spent the second night at the Ion Adventure Hotel which is near a geothermal energy plant. Most all of the architecture and decor throughout the country seems minimalist and blends well with the environment.
Geothermal energy is used to heat 85% of Icelandic homes and geothermal power plants generate 25% of Iceland’s electricity. We were cozy inside all buildings so the geothermal heating is definitely warmer than the heat pumps we use where I live. The Ion Hotel is terrific! We were met with a flute of champagne and a friendly host. There’s an outdoor, heated pool with a sauna plus a glass-walled lounge for viewing the Aurora Borealis (the Northern Lights). Typical of traveling, we met fun people in the pool who shared travel tips and laughs. The couple from Denmark told us they visit a couple times every year. So many people we met fell in love with Iceland and either relocated or keep returning. Truly, there’s something alluring about the land and the people.
Our French friend, Celine, joined us for the next few days as we headed to the South Coast.
The drive from the Golden Circle to the South Coast is easy enough and very scenic. This is Seljalandsfoss waterfall. If you don’t mind getting wet, you can walk behind it. There’s a faint rainbow in it but sometimes it gets a bright, double rainbow.
A little farther east is the Skogafoss waterfall, one of biggest waterfalls in the country. It has a 200 foot drop and is about 82 feet wide.
We continued further east to the small town of Vik where we enjoyed a lovely lunch in an old home converted to a cafe, Sudar-Vik, then checked in to our hotel, Black Beach Suites. The hotel is a combination of small efficiency apartments on the beach with a main building for a hostel. We walked out on the black sand for sunset.
Those cliffs are completely natural and great for climbing.
After dinner, we got our first view of the Aurora Borealis! There was no guarantee we’d see the Aurora but we planned 4 nights away from city lights and we got lucky. Don’t know that I have a “bucket list” but if I do, this was on it.
The next day we met up with a guide before sunrise (not that it’s early) and drove off-road to a glacier. Watching the sunrise over a glacier was a unique and magical experience. The landscape is unlike anything I’ve ever seen — the product of time and weather working together to create something special. It’s just another reminder of the force of nature. So crazy that the entire country was made by volcanic eruptions yet it’s covered with ice and glaciers. It’s extreme and contradictory but as real as it gets!
The compressed ice layered with volcanic ash gives it a striped look.
Our guide provided helmets and spikes for our shoes so we could walk on the glacier and hike into ice caves. As long as it wasn’t windy, we were quite comfortable in our layered clothes.
Lunch was tasty fish or lamb stew in a black bread bowl. We had uniformly delicious breads throughout the country and all of it was fresh-baked. I don’t think we were ever offered anything with preservatives. This drink was called a grape cocktail but turned out to be grapefruit. So funny!
On the way to our next hotel, we stopped again at Seljalandsfoss but this time we walked past the first, big waterfall to another that, while tall, is smaller than the first and not many people took the effort to reach.
The super cool thing about it was walking under and behind the falls to an area like a cave full of ice cycles!
Just so magical! Yes, our feet got wet but we wore waterproof boots with warm, smart-wool socks and I really didn’t care. So worth it!
The fourth night we stayed at the Ranga Hotel which is highly-rated and was greatly anticipated. Like most places, they have a wake-up option to call when/if the Aurora Borealis begins but we also consulted an app that alerted us to the probability and the time of a light show. The hotel has hot tubs which were just perfect after a day on the ice. We shared ours with an interesting couple from Ireland. Happy hour in a hot tub, sharing travel stories, and reflecting on the day’s events was so fun it was tempting to stay in too long but I almost passed out after the heated pool at Ion so I was careful to get out while I could still navigate the icy path back to my room.
The complimentary bottle of Spanish wine was in appreciation for booking directly instead of through a third-party. Several places we stayed made similar gestures. After a delicious dinner in the hotel restaurant, we put our cold-weather clothes back on and went out in hopes of a light show. The hotel had insulated overalls to slip on as an option.
We were not disappointed!
Morning again and we used our daylight to visit another waterfall and some ancient man-made caves. It was cold and windy but no precipitation.
This was a beautiful area but it was very windy so we didn’t spend much time here. When the wind died down, the cold temperature was fine but hiking with the wind howling was another story.
The history of these caves is sketchy and seemed to be mostly speculation but, pretty sure, they were used for shelter and storage for people, animals and harvests. Just driving through the countryside was time well-spent. We passed mile after mile of gorgeous landscapes with very few buildings of any kind.
Our next hotel was Umi and it turned out to be one of our favorites. We enjoyed a couple games of backgammon in the lovely lobby/lounge and a fine dinner in the hotel restaurant. Although we went out for lunch every day, dinner was almost always at the hotel. Remember, these hotels are quite isolated and definitely not within walking distance of anything except nature. Happily, I never saw a fast-food franchise or any chain restaurant. The dining options offered a lot of local character with European influence. I’m pescatarian and that was no problem since fresh haddock, salmon, char, and cod were on most menus.
After dinner, we checked the app and waited for optimal time for a light show. Precisely as predicted, at 9:00 PM we were honored by yet another display of greens, yellows and pinks across the northern sky.
To top it off, a couple dozen Icelandic horses walked up to us! They were super furry and very docile. They even tried to walk into the hotel lobby when the automatic doors opened which was quite funny to us, if not to the hotel staff.
You can’t make this up! Friendly horses joining our sky viewing was super exciting and completely unexpected.
Our last morning on the South Coast was shared with the sweet horses.
I assume they have owners but they were definitely not fenced in.
Back in Reykjavik for our last night, we popped into one of the many little pubs/cafes.
The hot cider was just right to warm us but the cold, clear water was equally good. We were often told that Iceland has the best water in the world. It’s all glacier water and, I’ll admit, it really is superior to any water I’ve had before. No plastic bottles; straight from the tap. I ordered a typical cod stew with potatoes and cheese. Served with fresh, rye bread, it was more than I could eat and very tasty.
We saw a lot of potatoes and beets on menus but not many other vegetables and almost no fruit as it all must be imported. But there was no end to fresh fish, lamb and homemade breads.
Our first and last nights were both spent at the Expedition Marriott. It has a lobby fire pit with lots of chairs around it plus a spa that is complimentary for hotel guests. Both offer nice opportunities to warm up and relax with other hotel guests. The roof top bar that opens most nights could have been good but the cold wind made it impossible to stay outside long. Anyway, there were too many lights so no chance of seeing the Northern Lights.
On our last day we drove to Keflavik for lunch at a waterside restaurant that was recommended by our hotel concierge. While there, we watched a well-dressed woman with a baby carriage leave the carriage with the baby in it outside alone while she came in the warm restaurant for lunch with friends! This seems crazy to me but, apparently, it’s customary to leave babies outside so they get used to the cold. I was told that minus 5 degrees Celsius (23 degrees F) is considered optimal for babies but they don’t leave them out below minus 10 C (14 degrees F).
Before returning the car and checking in for our flights, we drove out to Gunnuhver, a nature park with wooden walkways passing through steam. Unlike the geysers on the Golden Circle, the steam shoots up continuously … a reminder of the heat just below the surface.
At the airport we were greeted by Krampus, the legendary character who steals bad children at Christmastime. I’m glad this European tradition hasn’t caught on in the States.
The flight path over the Atlantic Ocean passes over the southern tip of Greenland and offers a chilling view of the snowy mountains below.
Because we were flying west with the sun, it was dusk/sunset almost the entire 6 hour flight.
Here’s my brief commentary on Icelandic society: Everyone and everything projected an image of extreme health. But things are rarely completely as they look. There is very little diversity as expected given that Iceland was settled by Norwegians who brought in slaves from Ireland and Scotland. Immigration was expanded about 25 years ago when tourism created a need for people to take low-wage jobs. I didn’t see people of color but we met a relatively large number of immigrants from Eastern Europe. Thanks to laws that prohibit paying men more than women for doing the same job, liberal maternity leave (six months paid leave for both parents), and women’s political involvement, Iceland has been “the best place in the world to be a woman” since 2009 according to the World Economic Forum’s Gender Gap Index and is widely known as the safest country on earth. Yet the “Nordic paradox” phenomenon persists. Women are victims of domestic violence and sexual abuse at an alarmingly high rate. Twenty-five percent of women in Iceland have reported domestic violence in contrast to 10% in Europe overall. There is currently a #MeToo movement that sheds light on misogynistic actions by powerful men. I’m an advocate of solo travel and have confidence in my ability to travel the world safely as I’ve always done. But, while I hate to admit it, I’m glad I had a male travel companion. Still, I wouldn’t let that stop me from going if I was solo. The benefits hugely outweigh the risks. Just be smart.
Reflecting on my experience in Iceland, I recall the natural character of everything — the land, food, activities, and people. If I ever make it back to Iceland, I’d like to explore the Northwest and maybe drive the ring road around the whole island. It could be fun to go in summer with the midnight sun and 22 hours of daylight. We never experienced crowding or problems with too many tourists but that could an issue in warmer weather. Returning in winter for more Aurora and to go snowmobiling, horseback riding, and do some of the things we missed this trip would also be great. The possibilities are endless. Until then, I’ll hold the memories of this adventure close to my heart.
“If you think adventure is dangerous, try routine; it is lethal.” Paulo Coelho
“It seems that the more places I see and experience, the bigger I realize the world to be. The more I become aware of, the more I realize how relatively little I know of it, how many places I have still to go, how much more there is to learn.” Anthony Bourdain
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.” Mark Twain
Wanting to visit a dear friend in Paris, my son and I booked an 11-day trip to Europe at the end of May; 4 days in Portugal and 7 in France. Of course, it’s not long enough but it’s never long enough so I have to go anyway or there will be only dreams instead of memories.
First stop, Lisbon! We stayed at Hotel da Baixa near the waterfront and this plaza, Praca do Comercio (Commerce Square), not far from Rossio Square where the train station is located. There were street performers in the plaza with a mood of international fellowship and peace. What a fun city for walking, but a bit challenging to navigate. Completely unlike New York where streets and avenues are numbered, Lisbon has winding streets that change names multiple times. This is fine when meandering but make it tricky when looking for something specific. Driving wouldn’t be easy because a lot of the narrow roads are one-way or pedestrian-only during certain hours.
We also took one of the many “free” walking tours that provides a lot of history and education about the architecture and various occupations that left influences on the land and people. (Travel tip: It helps to register for the free walking tour in advance.) Known as the “sunniest city in Europe,” there was great weather every day — 70s during the day and 60s at night.
Like many (maybe most) European cities, there’s an old fort and castle way up on a hill overlooking the town. We walked up and paid the entrance fee for Castelo de Sao Jorge (St. George Castle) but were a bit surprised to find that it’s only the fort walls. There’s no building inside!
Still, the view from the top is worth both the hike and the entrance fee to support it. On another day, we walked back up the hill for a view of the setting sun over the harbor.
On our first full day, we took the train to Sintra. It’s an easy and cheap ride about 40 minutes out of town. The UNESCO World Heritage town is full of beautiful castles and parks like a real-life Disney World. It’s magical to see from a distance but also incredible when you get close enough to see all the details.
Visitors are recommended to arrive about 9:30 AM when the parks open which we did. Each area requires a separate ticket but entrance tickets are timed and we weren’t able to gain access to some at convenient times. We could have purchased tickets online in advance but, no worries. We were happy going in a few and just walking around for about three hours.
Early afternoon we hired a taxi to take us to Estalagem Muchaxo, a romantic, small hotel built into the side of the cliff overlooking the Atlantic Ocean where I honeymooned many years ago. It’s almost unchanged. The swimming pool is ocean-fed and everything about it is full of charm. Next to Muchaxo is Fortaleza do Guincho Hotel & Restaurante, Michelin rated and widely considered the best restaurant in Portugal. Daniel and I sat on the terrace and enjoyed an absolutely amazing lunch in the sunshine. As every place we visited in Portugal, the price was very affordable.
I mean, really! I was sitting in the sunshine with this view enjoying excellent service, food, and wine with my fine son. What better way to spend a Wednesday afternoon?
After lunch we got an Uber (they’re easy and cheap) to Estoril which is about 15 minutes south. We peeked in the lobby of the casino where the James Bond movie “Casino Royale” was filmed then walked along the coast to the commercial center of Cascais.
This area is sweet but not especially unique in that it’s much like a lot of other beach towns with souvenir shops and CBD stands. No THC is allowed. We were told the laws are becoming more liberal and cannabis is legal for private use, just not for sale, which resembles Virginia law back home. Portugal doesn’t have a medical exception. There was no problem getting directions or finding people who speak English. But trying Spanish doesn’t work at all. At the risk of stating the obvious, Portuguese is a completely different language. We took the train back to Lisbon which was cheap, fun, and easy.
Before dinner we enjoyed aperitivo, the European version of happy hour, then opted for tapas–several small dishes meant to be shared. The fried balls are cod fish which is a local specialty and found on most menus.
Thursday afternoon we enjoyed one of the best meals of the trip at Leonetta on Pink Street (R. da Rosa, 321). A reservation is preferred but we got lucky in every regard when we found this little restaurant and were seated for a culinary delight!
Daniel loved his seafood while my pasta with mushrooms and black truffles was amazing! The photo of my pasta is a tad blurry; probably because of the delicious wine that I couldn’t turn down.
Friday night we went to the Taylor Swift concert at the Lisbon Football (Soccer) Stadium holding 70,000 people. It was definitely an adventure! I wrote a separate blog post on the show so will skip the details. The entire show was a notch above anything I’ve seen before.
Leaving Saturday morning was challenging. The small concern was that our street is pedestrian-only most of the day so we needed to walk to the square for an Uber pick-up.
The real issue was that the French Air Traffic Controllers were striking (not uncommon) so our flight was cancelled and we had to find a different way to get to Paris. After considering many options, we booked flights to Brussels, Belgium then took a train to Paris. The last-minute re-routing cost extra money, time, and stress but we arrived safely and were met by my treasured friends of more than 40 years, Pierre and Monique.
Sunday we drove through the French countryside, past the town of Le Mans famous for the auto race, and arrived at a castle with peony gardens in full bloom. Chateau de Sourches is in the Pays de la Loire region and was built in 1763.
The day was spent with interesting, fun friends, old and new. Quite un-American, the castle has no restaurant so we enjoyed a picnic on the lawn as only the French can do; good wine, delicious baguettes, homemade jams, cheese & sausage, fresh fruit, and more. Many of these castles and chateaus scattered about Europe are handed down through generations but some are for sale. Depending on the location, one can buy a small castle for about $3 million, so I’m told. I expect it would take a lot to renovate it to bring it up to acceptable living standards but it would be such a fun project.
Monique and I had been reunited less than 24 hours but it felt like we had never parted. This is the kind of friendship that stays warm and close even with separations of years at a time. It’s the kind of friendship that’s worth flying across the ocean to maintain.
The next day (Monday, May 27th) we caught a train to Caen then a bus to Ouistreham. How special to be riding bikes on the beach at Normandy on Memorial Day.
Eighty years earlier, on June 6, 1944, the American and allied troops came ashore freeing the French from the Germany occupation during WWII. To this day, it’s still the largest seaborne invasion in history.
The Americans came ashore a short ways down the beach. This specific section of the beach was where the British disembarked. Gratitude for the liberators is prominent throughout the town.
It was an absolute honor to visit with Mme. Dilly who was 17-years old during the liberation. She invited us in for champagne then we took a stroll down the lovely, pedestrian streets. We all laughed at our shared memories of meeting more than 40 years ago.
There’s a ferry that takes 8 hours to cross the English Channel and a heavy British influence with pubs serving fish and chips but we opted for crepes for dinner. Given the choice, French food seems safer than British, even if it is the one thing the Britts do well. Thanks to all the walking, I didn’t gain weight but, seriously, I ate bread every meal of the entire trip beginning with croissants for breakfast.
Tuesday we took the train back to Montgeron and enjoyed a slow day reading by the fireside while it rained. Wednesday we shopped for fresh food at the market which is always fun and colorful. The fruits are smaller but taste better. We were told it’s because they don’t allow growth chemicals or pesticides like we use in the States plus they don’t have preservatives added. I’m not sure if this is true but I was told the same thing in Israel.
In the afternoon, we drove the short distance to Yerres where we toured the Maison Caillebotte, home to three notable men. Gustave Caillebotte (1848-1894) was a reknown painter and boat designer.
His brother was a noted author and his half-brother was a priest at Notre Dame. The decor was well-maintained and quite beautiful.
Thursday morning we went in to Paris for the last leg of our trip. After dropping our backpacks at Hotel Pont Royal on the Left Bank, we walked to the Rodin Museum.
One of the many great qualities of this museum is that it isn’t overwhelming like the Louvre and some of the bigger museums.
I especially enjoyed the room dedicated to the work of Auguste Rodin’s student, mistress, and, ultimately, his rival, Camille Claudel (1864 – 1943).
As a young girl, Camille’s mother did not approve of her “unladylike desire to become an artist” and the Ecole des Beaux-Arts barred women from enrolling, at that time. Her father supported her but after he died, she relied on Rodin for financial support. Many said Rodin was angry because he couldn’t control her art as she explored new directions and the medium of marble that he never mastered. After their affair ended, she completed “The Mature Age” (below) and he, believing it was about him, cut off all support forcing her to beg on the streets for money. Her mother, brother, and sister had her committed to an institution based on their opinion of her immorality. I wish she was alive today to see how respected and loved her work has become.
For lunch we had an absolutely delicious meal at Cinq-Mars. I’m pescatarian but never had a problem finding something good to order. To be honest, the bread and wine were so good that I didn’t really care what the main course was but it was always excellent. Before dinner we sat at a stylish cafe on Les Champs Elycees with our new friend, Celine. Celine is a highly-respected veterinarian and business woman. Fortunately, we’ve moved past the 19th century in women’s roles but we still have a long way to go if we hope to have equal opportunities and rewards.
Dinner Thursday was at Cafe Varenne where we found quite a few Americans. When I asked a fellow diner how he heard about it, he said Ina Garten, the “Barefoot Contessa” lives in the area and talks about it on her show.
Although it was the last day in May, the weather Friday was quite cool, much the same as all our days in France — mid 60s and a light rain. We made the best of it — walking, enjoying the famous scenery, and popping into boutiques and chic stores occasionally. Notre Dame is still being repaired from the fire in April 2019. People gather outside but it’s not possible to enter. It’s expected to reopen in December this year (2024).
The olympic rings are everywhere in preparation for the upcoming summer games in July. All locals seem to have negative feelings about it. They say it’s very disruptive and will cost the citizens a lot. I hope it brings them national pride as well as traffic problems and increased prices. Even the metro is going up next month.
Time for one last delectable dinner. We ended the dinner with their signature dessert, Amadeus Au Chocolat — chocolate cake full of hot fudge sauce that exudes all over the plate mixing with the cake and vanilla ice cream when the cake is pierced. To say it was delicious seems so understated.
Alas, time to return home after a great trip. Honestly, I was thrilled to be in Europe walking and talking with my son who lives almost 2,000 miles from me. Every day was a treasure. Shared new experiences made it priceless.
“Beauty is everywhere.” Auguste Rodin
“The language of friends is not words but meanings.” Henry David Thoreau
“A walk about Paris will provide lessons in history, beauty and in the point of life.” Thomas Jefferson
“There are only two places in the world where we can live happy: At home and in Paris.” Ernest Hemingway
“Paris is always a good idea.” Audrey Hepburn, Sabina
“We’ll always have Paris.” Humphrey Bogart, Casablanca
If you wonder what it’s like to go to a Taylor Swift concert, here’s my experience …
I was planning a trip to Europe the last week in May, so I checked to see what events were happening that we might enjoy. Voila! Taylor Swift was performing in Portugal at the Lisbon soccer stadium on Friday, May 24th, 2024. It sounded like a really fun show and one of those rare opportunities that you need to grab when you have the chance. Anyway, I’m a sucker for live music and they say no one does it like Taylor. Our seats were good but they were way high up at the far end of the stadium filled to capacity with 70,000 fans.
The show was expertly performed in all regards. The sound system was sharp and well-balanced so we could easily understand every word Taylor spoke or sang. Her super-sweet personality was up-close and personal. The costumes were adorable and numerous with each high-lighting the story of the song or the era.
The special effects were incredible. Some people were given wrist bands that lit up during songs but there were no bands when we entered. At times there were columns of smoke shooting up intensifying the the dramatic effect of the music and the mood. The picture below was taken during “Bad Blood.” I don’t know her love life or her songs well enough to know which break-up this was written about but maybe it was for John Mayer or Jake Gyllenhaal. Regardless, it’s super cool that her songs are so personal. Even though we all know she’s moved on with a new love, she performs each song with great passion like the emotions are still raw.
Elaborate sets and backup performers enhanced many of the songs like those from the folklore album she wrote during COVID quarantine. During one song she stepped to the end of the runway and put her hat on the head of a little girl standing by the stage. Anyone who didn’t already love Taylor Swift surely was converted during the show.
While I don’t know all of her music, I knew about 80 percent of the songs she played. Many of them, like “Shake It Off,” were a sing-along with the audience. She played 45 songs without a break which is both huge and admirable. This was not the type of show where a performer sits on a chair and plays acoustic guitar. Taylor danced, sang and played giving 100% for three and a half hours.
Now, I’ll share the backstory that might make you think twice. First, the cost — I learned a few years ago, it you have money, shows are never sold out. It seems most concerts sell all tickets the first day but re-sale tickets are always available, mostly from professional scalpers. Unlike the United States, I’m told that Europe has laws to limit the price of re-sale tickets. My son, Daniel, and I paid what I consider a huge amount of money for two tickets (800 Euros each plus fees). This is half or less than what a ticket to a show in the States would cost but definitely not cheap.
Next, the chaos of uncontrolled access — We arrived at 4:00 PM when doors were set to open with Paramore opening at 6:15 and Taylor at 7:15. Thousands of people including hundreds of young girls in sparkling, short skirts were ahead of us. We met quite a few from the States and many who have already seen the show once or plan to go again. We made our way to the designated entrance according to our ticket (Piso 3) but there was little-to-no organization. At first it seemed fun, if confusing. While we politely stood in what resembled a line for security check, we watched people continuously cut in line at the front. It moved so slowly that we had no idea when or if we’d ever make it inside. There were no security people or event organizers to be seen. After hours standing in the heat with no restrooms in sight, it went from crazy to dangerous.
At 6:40 PM the crowd roared, broke down the fences and rushed toward the stadium. I’m 5’3″ and couldn’t see where we were headed but it didn’t matter because the force of the crowd pushed me along. Children grabbing their parents hands must have been really scared. Forget the security station that was supposed to be checking bags. This was a mob of thousands that still had quite a ways to go before actually entering the stadium. We got inside at 8:00 PM so we missed all of Paramore but reached our seats right before Taylor started. She didn’t mention the problems with entrance but she must have known because the show started an hour later than scheduled.
I wasn’t a Swiftie before the concert and can’t say that I’m one now but I’m glad I had the experience; it was certainly a unique and grand experience unlike any other. In addition to putting on a great show, I admire Taylor Swift for both her talent and business acumen. Girl Power!
“‘Cause, darling, I’m a nightmare dressed like a daydream” Taylor Swift, Blank Space
“And you understand now why they lost their minds and fought the wars and why I’ve spent my whole life trying to put it into words.” Taylor Swift, You Are In Love
After seeing the incredible line-up of artists, my friend and I decided to spend way too much money on tickets to the Jimmy Buffett tribute concert at the Hollywood Bowl. In Jimmy’s words, “It’s important to have as much fun as possible while we’re here. It balances out the times when the minefield of life explodes.”
The pirates & parrot heads showed up with margaritas in hand and spirits high ready to party one more time with our friend, Jimmy.
The warning that the show was about to start was the classic “Hot, Hot, Hot!” blasting on the sound system which is typical of a Buffett concert, then “Working ‘n’ Playing” while we watched a composite video of Jimmy over the years doing all the things he did — fishing, surfing, sailing, drinking, performing, and always smiling. The show hadn’t even started and I was already crying happy tears. True, Jimmy was gone, but somehow he was right there with us.
The first performance was the Coral Reefer Band led by Mac McAnally with Scotty Emerick (newest band member), “It’s 5 o’clock Somewhere!” Mac, well-known as a longtime member of the band, close friend and collaborator of Jimmy’s, was the master of ceremony.
Next was Jake Owen with “Grapefruit, Juicy Fruit,” one of Jimmy’s flying songs. (Fun fact: Jimmy had a pilot’s license before he had a driver’s license.) Hope you can picture it — the entire concert was basically a sing-along.
The Coral Reefer Band kept it going with Scotty on lead vocals to “Pencil Thin Mustache.” There were no strangers at the show. We were all friends invited by our mutual friends, Jimmy Buffett and Paul McCartney. The photo below is the guy sitting next to me. He had been there since the gates opened and got to hear Paul McCartney and others at sound check. During that time, I was sitting in traffic for two and a half hours but, no worries, nothing could bring my energy down and, fortunately, we started out with excess time, just in case.
Every person taking the stage had a sweet, funny, or amazing story about an experience with Jimmy that showed his adventurous and kind personality. Lots of quips about following Jimmy into questionable situations with impaired decision-making. In his words, “One of the inescapable encumbrances of leading an interesting life is that there have to be moments when you almost lose it.” I agree. If you want to know how far you can go, you need to go until you start to fall; maybe not flat on your face, but it’s alright if you do.
Woody Harrelson opened with, “So, one time Jimmy and I were smoking a joint on the roof of the Vatican … That’s not true, of course, but wouldn’t it be a great story? . . . There are a lot of other great stories that are true but, unfortunately, someone robbed my memory bank.” Then he made fun of how Jimmy turned a flip flop wearing, partying, laid-back lifestyle into a mega business of restaurants, resorts and old-folks homes. It’s the magic of Jimmy Buffett — super casual while seriously striving toward lofty goals.
Next up, Kenny Chesney with “Changes in Latitudes, Changes in Attitudes” and a duet with Mac, “Back Where I Come From.” This is a song Kenny wrote and recorded but Jimmy also played it both alone and with Kenny. The slides providing the backdrop were just perfect.
Dolly Parton (via video) gave a short, sweet tribute of memories and appreciation, like a send-off.
Next, Angelique Kidjo performed “One Particular Harbor” that Jimmy wrote about Cooks Bay in Moorea, Tahiti. So beautiful in every regard — her voice, the song, the images, and the dreams.
A video of Jimmy flying his plane and needing an emergency landing played then the Indiana Jones soundtrack kicked in and out walked Harrison Ford! He strolled up to the mike and said, “Jimmy Buffett was a coooool guy!” then he told a story about having a boozy lunch with Jimmy and Ed Bradley on Ed’s birthday back when Harrison was 40. He noticed that both of them had an earring so right after lunch Harrison got his ear pierced. “That’s how infectious Jimmy’s coolness was. Enough to make a 40-year old man spontaneously pierce his f###ing ear!” Pretty sure Harrison was way drunk but so were a lot of people, maybe most. Harrison introduced the next act …
Zac Brown singing his new tribute song, “Pirates & Parrots” (first time ever performed live and scheduled to be released later in the month). “Another dollar on the wall, another poet with a pen, another beach bum with a dog, another stranger sailin’ in, and the water’s just as blue, no, you haven’t missed a thing, but we’re all here missin’ you.All the pirates and the parrots sing. So adios, my friend Anchor where that ocean ends, we’ll pick up where you left off strummin’ on a sailor song we’ll hold down this salty rock where it’s always 5 o’clock. When the sun goes down, we raise our drinks — All the pirates and the parrots sing … adios, my friend” We were all singing and crying when he broke into the next song, “Knee Deep” a Zac Brown song recorded featuring Jimmy Buffett. In between songs he took off his shoes and long pants for the perfect beach transition.
Eric Church met Jimmy 7 years ago and said they often took morning hikes, afternoon lunches with wine and evenings with tequila until there wasn’t any more tequila. He said Jimmy loved life more than anyone he’d ever met. While hiking they talked about music, songwriting, life and death. Jimmy told him that people like them never really die because their songs live on forever. Then Eric proved it by doing a great version of “Son of a Son of a Sailor.”
Pat Reilly basketball coach and president of Miami Heat shared memories (via video).
Next performer, Timothy B. Schmidt, told a fun story about how it was 1984 and the Eagles had broken up when he ran into Jimmy at an afternoon party in Hollywood. Jimmy asked him what he was doing over the summer then invited him to play bass and tour with the Coral Reefer Band which he did for the next 3 years. Fun Fact: Timothy is the person who coined the phrase “parrot heads.” He did a great version of “Volcano.”
Jane Fonda shared memories; she claimed to be the one who actually smoked a bowl with Jimmy at the Vatican and she talked about Jimmy’s ability to spread happiness everywhere he went. Most all the celebrities and guest performers were surprises. There would be a collective gasp each time someone famous walked out to share and party with us.
Brandi Carlisle, one of the greatest female vocalists of our day, sang “Tin Cup Chalice” and “Come Monday.” She talked about how she and Jimmy were fishing buddies and would share fishing stories. One day he called her and said he met some lesbians who wanted to go fishing so he gave them her phone number. Haha, so Jimmy — un-PC yet so real and so lovable.
James Taylor (via video from Australia) made sweet send-off comments for his friend, Jimmy.
Coral Reefer Band picked up the mood with “Cheeseburger in Paradise.” Mac said, “You know exactly what Jimmy would be doing if he was here. He’d be bouncing up and down on a giant, inflatable cheeseburger!”
Will Arnett shared memories of staying with Jimmy & Jane and their kids in the Caribbean. He said one time Jimmy was on his way to get qualified for landing at St. Barth’s airport and invited to come along as he made 30 practice landings at the very challenging strip. Will was ready to go when Jane reminded him that Jimmy had crashed his plane 3 times so he backed out.
Jackson Browne came out next with “He Went to Paris” (everyone was in tears). This song is well-known as Bob Dylan’s favorite Jimmy Buffett song. “Some of it’s magic, some of it’s tragic, but it’s been a good life all the way.” I’ve watched this about a dozen times and I cry every time.
Caroline Jones and the Coral Reefer Band performed “Bubbles Up” — one of Jimmy’s newer songs that says when your life isn’t going well and you don’t know which was to go, follow the bubbles because they always go up. The phrases “bubbles up” and “fins up” were spoken all night.
Alan Jackson — (via video) I understand he’s in very poor health and hated not being able to attend in person.
JD Souther played “Southern Cross.” Mac specifically ask JD Souther to sing this song. Jimmy didn’t write it but it’s one that he frequently played in concert and loved along with his other sailing songs. With both JD and Jackson telling stories about living in the canyon back in the 70s it made me wonder if Linda Rondstat was in the audience. I’m sure there were lots of celebrities mixed in with the parrot heads.
Coral Reefer Band got everyone singing again with “Why Don’t We Get Drunk.”
Snoop Dogg came out with “Gin and Juice,” accompanied by the Coral Reefer Band. Snoop laughed and said, “You know it was ME! I was the one smoking with Jimmy.”
Mac introduced the next performer saying he’s a great human being; he loves him, Jimmy loved him, and if you don’t already, you’re about to love him. He could be only half as good and still be the greatest ever at his instrument. Jake Shimabukuro, came out so humble and gracious. His connection to Jimmy started when was he was booked to play the parking lot of a surf shop and Mac heard him then told Jimmy who invited him to his show that night and asked him to come up on stage. It was his big break. Jake was visibly very emotional. He spoke a Hawaiian phrase from his grandmother meaning, “I am who I am because of you.” Then looked up and said, “I love you, Jimmy. You’ll have to help me with this.” The instrumental “While My Guitar Gently Weeps” played expertly on his ukulele was beautiful and powerful making me feel such love for him, Jimmy, and, of course, George Harrison.
John McEnroe shared memories. “Jimmy came up to me and said, I just talked to my Uncle Warren, and, I don’t know about you but he had me fooled into thinking they were related because they’re both so smart so I was expecting investment advice but instead he gave me tennis advice. He came to a couple of my matches and said, “Relax man! You’re too f***ing wound up! And, of course, he was right.”
Pittbull and his fabulous back-up dancers started with “Don’t Stop the Party” then Jon Bon Jovi joined him on “Thank God for Jimmy Buffett.” Pitbull said he had been working on this song for years and actually played it for Jimmy who loved it.
Judd Apatow and Leslie Mann shared memories and claimed to be the ones who got high with Jimmy in the south of Italy. Then they introduced the next performer …
Sheryl Crowe said Jimmy hired her in 1989 to sing back-up on “Off To See the Lizard” when she was absolutely a nobody. She flew in to Miami on a small commuter jet and there was a bomb scare. The plane landed on a foamed runway and the FBI showed up. Jimmy would forevermore say, “This girl knows how to show up to a party!” Sheryl was looking fine as she tenderly said, “He is for me the most beautiful illustration of what it means to be alive and awake and absolutely present in every moment.” Then she had us put our hands up in the shark symbol and said she’s sure Jimmy is looking down laughing his a** off. We all sang “Fins” along with Sheryl Crowe.
Kelly Slater (professional surfer) shared memories via video. He talked about great times spent together and once when he couldn’t go surfing Jimmy reminded him of the importance of making time for what you love and not putting it off.
Jack Johnson — “A Pirate Looks at 40” (lots of tears; beautiful song sung perfectly). He told a funny story about how Jimmy showed up at his house and was mistaken for the plumber. Rather than correct the nanny, Jimmy took a look at the broken toilet and told her, “I didn’t bring my tools but I can come back tomorrow.”
Zach Brown with David Grohl on drums performed “My Brown-eyed Girl.” Dave was chewing gum and grinning the whole time. Like everyone, he seemed so very happy to be a part of this party.
Dave Matthews (via video) opened with “Lovely Cruise.” Back in 2005 Jimmy & Dave performed together at Madison Square Garden in a concert for New Orleans and Dave often plays “A Pirate Looks at 40” but this night he closed with one of my favorite Buffett songs, “School Boy Heart” while we watched videos of Jimmy. “I got a school boy heart, a novelist eye, stout sailor’s legs and a license to fly. I came with nomad feet and some wandering toes that light up my longboard and hang off the nose.”
Don Johnson (actor and Jimmy’s brother-in-law; Jane’s brother) shared sweet stories about hanging with Jimmy and family and what an amazing cook he was.
The Eagles played three songs, “Boys of Summer” (Don Henley on vocals), “Take It To the Limit” (Vince Gill on vocals) and “In the City” (Joe Walsh on vocals). Before you get upset that they played their own songs instead of Buffett songs, remember that all performers and all songs were chosen by Jane (and Jimmy) and they had special meaning. David Grohl came back out to introduce the last performer and said one of Jimmy’s many dreams to come true was to share the stage with his idol. Welcome to the stage … Sir Paul McCartney!
Paul gave us a magical version of “Let It Be.” He said in Jimmy’s last week of life, Janie invited him to come to their home and sing some songs for him. One of the songs he sang was “Let it Be.” According to Paul, Jimmy was pretty bad off but still had a twinkle in his eyes. He shared a sweet story of one time when he was on holiday with Jimmy and didn’t have a guitar so Jimmy had one of his strung left-handed and loaned it to him. Later, Jimmy had a special guitar hand-made for Paul. So many stories of consideration, generosity and kindness, even when it wasn’t expected.
The entire group came out for the closing — “Margaritaville.” Paul McCartney had a margarita in hand and held it up to the sky for a toast to Jimmy. So much happiness, so many tears. No one left early. Everyone stayed to the last note of the last song and I think we all left with a full heart. There was no encore nor was one expected; this wasn’t a typical concert. It was a party more than a concert.
Great thanks goes to Jane Buffett, Jimmy’s wife of 26 years, his three children, Savannah, Cameron and Delaney, and Mac McAnally for putting together this wonderful tribute. We were told many times that Jane and Mac were responsible for the line-up, song selections, and every detail. YouTube has a lot of clips that people took. No one seems to know if there will be a documentary or professional video but we’re all hoping so.
Jimmy branded a lifestyle and built a billion dollar empire on it — flip flops, margaritas, music, bars, boats, surfing, and flying. A self-proclaimed dreamer, he wrote and sang about it with honesty and humor. Such a full life. Each celebrity and musician reminisced about fun days with Jimmy and his generous spirit. Thank you, Jimmy. We’ll keep the party going.
Santa Monica sunset the night before flying back to Virginia Beach
“Alone on a midnight passage I can count the falling stars While the Southern Cross and the satellites They remind me of where we are Spinning around in circles Living it day to day And still 24 hours maybe 60 good years It’s really not that long a stay” Jimmy Buffett, “Cowboy in the Jungle”
Sometimes life is just too hard and a person needs a TIMEOUT. That was me a week after losing my mother.
So, I started with a google search with a few key words like “peaceful”, “ecolodge”, “Caribbean”, and “nature” and came up with Jungle Bay, an “Adventure & Wellness” retreat. I was unfamiliar with Dominica (pronouced Dom-i-neeka) which is located just north of Venezuela and calls itself the “Nature Island”. I love going somewhere I’ve never been before and it felt like a good fit for my mood so I booked the trip on Monday and flew out on Friday.
Feeling quite numb and having only 5 days available, I opted for the package that includes airport transport, all meals, unlimited resort activities and 30-minutes of spa time daily. I didn’t need a rental car and didn’t have to make any decisions about where to go except to look at the daily events and either opt in or out. No companions this time–solo trip. It was perfect. Each day day I watched the sunrise, got a massage, took a sunset yoga class, and generally soaked up the peace and beauty of the surroundings.
The resort is expertly designed for maximum privacy and a sense of tranquility. The villas are either private or duplex and are tucked in the trees with private balconies. In the picture below I’m standing on my balcony. The balcony had comfortable furniture including a padded lounge chair that was perfect for star-gazing at the bright sky at night.
The minimal furnishings with luxury linens combine for just the right amount of nature without roughing it. This was the entrance to my room. There was a semi-outdoor shower with complete privacy and hot water with spa soaps and lotions.
No doubt I missed some amazing experiences but my energy level was low so I generally stayed at the resort with limited off-site excursions. My only big excursion was a three-hour trip that took us to Trafalgar Falls with a stop at the farmer’s market in the capitol city, Roseau.
The colorful market stretched about 4 blocks offering fresh fish, produce, juices (ginger-lime is my favorite), and handmade crafts. When cruise ships are in port, the town is over-run with tourists but there were only locals the Saturday morning I was there in early February. The picture below was taken in Roseau looking down on the town, soccer field, and port.
The falls are quite beautiful and easily reached after about a 15-minute hike. Two waterfalls, Papa Falls and Momma Falls, come together in a pool of crystal clear water that’s warm enough to enjoy but cool enough to refresh.
Every resort says their staff is friendly but Jungle Bay truly has an outstanding, incredibly helpful, and very well-trained staff. Of special note was Dario, the restaurant manager from Italy who always chose a perfect table for me, set it with care and gently opened my napkin then placed it in my lap. I could have been at a Michelin star restaurant in Paris for that kind of service. There was an array of healthy, fresh food at every meal.
Also special was Nancy, the Swiss yoga instructor, who wore many hats and acted as my best friend making sure I had everything I needed and inviting me to join her on a sunrise hike that was not a featured activity.
We left before dawn and hiked 3 miles through the town of Soufriere to Scotts Head village (population 721). Passing through Soufriere I saw Bubble Beach where I had gone snorkeling the day before. The bubbles in the water are very fun. They shoot straight up from the sand just like an effervescent glass of champagne.
After walking through Scotts Head village we took the rocky passage up to a high point on a peninsula with a 2,000 ft drop off to the marine reserve below for a majestic view of the sunrise. This is the place where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Caribbean. Ahhhhh … I can close my eyes and still feel the moment.
The walk back was fun in a different way. Instead of the quiet of dawn we got to see the towns waking up and starting the day. Everyone we passed was super friendly. You can barely see Jungle Bay hidden in the trees above Soufriere.
Each day I joined the sunset yoga class. The two spacious yogas studios have ample room for visiting instructors and simultaneous classes. One evening we did our yoga against a wall which was different for me. Mostly, we did yin yoga which is relaxing and not overly strenuous. It holds poses for two to five minutes each and focuses on breathing and inner peace. Our instructor was very approachable and open to suggestions. She helped us relax using our bodies, sounds, aromas, and the lovely surroundings.
The entire resort is only a few years old so everything feels new and state-of-the-art; environment-friendly, eco-savvy chic. There are semi-hidden sculptures and benches throughout the grounds–just right for someone who’s in timeout.
I was hoping to regain my balance after losing my anchor, my mother. I can’t say that 4 days in Dominica did that but it definitely was a warm and welcomed break. With any luck, I’ll return to Jungle Bay someday and explore the area a bit more while saving time to enjoy the calming resort. The hike to Boiling Lake looked fun but it took 8 hours away from the resort and I wasn’t up to spending that much time in a group. Meanwhile, Dominica gave me the timeout I was seeking. Mom would have loved it.
Among the countless things I learned from my mother — she gave me a joy for life and the ability to see beauty and humor all around me; humility in that we are all ignorant, just on different subjects; and, confidence that I can be and do whatever I want enough to work for. Every day was better because she was in it. Whatever good there may be in me, I owe to her. Virginia Byler 2/20/1926 – 1/21/2024
“But she wasn’t around, and that’s the thing when your parents die, you feel like instead of going in to every fight with backup, you are going into every fight alone.” Mitch Albom
“There are no goodbyes for us. Wherever you are, you will always be in my heart.” Mahatma Gandhi
“Once a year go someplace you’ve never been before.” Dalai Lama
When I think of Italy, I think of delicious food, ancient villages, beautiful architecture, crazy drivers, and a lot of style. This 10-day trip delivered all that and more! Before I post pictures and thoughts, I want to list 4 rules of Italian culture that I learned …
Never Order Cappuccino after 11:00 AM — The cappuccino machine has been turned off, cleaned, and is ready for the morning. You must switch to espresso or macchiato.
Never Cut Pasta with a Knife — Twirl it. For giant noodles like lasagna, you may gently break with the side of your fork. Emily Post is wrong; you may never cut it with your knife.
Never Go Outside with Wet Hair — People will legit look at you and comment as if you’re not properly clothed.
Look Your Companion Straight in His/her Eyes When Toasting — Do not look at the glass. It’s all about sharing this moment with that special person.
Tuesday October 17, 2023 I arrived in Milan. My friends picked me up and we drove to their lovely home in La Spezia between Milan and Pisa. After dropping off my bags, we walked out for brunch at “Ciao, Baby,” an adorable cafe owned and managed by a local Italian chef and his American girlfriend. How refreshing to go out but not jump in a car. Walking places is great on so many levels. I was jet lagged but happy to be in this beautiful city with my dear friends.
Wednesday, we strolled through the streets of La Spezia and soaked up the beauty in the store windows with designer clothes and markets full of fresh produce and fish. People buy fresh food daily and eat it before it spoils. Home refrigerators are small and the vegetables & baked products have no preservatives. There are small markets all over so no need to go far for fresh food.
We enjoyed lunch with another ex-pat. As I’ve noticed in other places, the ex-pat community seems full of people with fascinating stories. I suppose it either takes or makes character to leave your home country and live abroad.
That’s right … wine, olive oil, and yummy bread with every meal. Lunch was almost too good; I ate so much! This is the time the stores close and people go home for a nap but I kept going; just too much to see.
Thursday morning we went multi-modal — planes, trains & automobiles. While it might sound difficult, it was super easy. And since I travel light, a small backpack was all I needed leaving my hands free to take pictures or sip coffee. We walked to the train station, took the train to Pisa, flew from Pisa to Bari, picked up a rental car and drove to Matera, city of “sassi” (stone). Italian drivers are aggressive and expressive. Thanks, Alessandra, for driving so Xandra and I could enjoy the ride (when we weren’t screaming or praying. Just kidding!)
Matera is amazing! Dating back 10,000 years, it’s one of the oldest continually occupied communities in the world. Until the 1950s the cave dwellings were still in ancient conditions–basic and unsanitary. UNESCO stepped in and offered a lot of money to restore, preserve and partially modernize it. We opted to stay in the sassi and rented a cave apartment through AirBnB. It was lovely in every regard and our location was perfect. I didn’t wander very far alone because it was challenging to find my way back. The streets are many levels deep and seem to go in circles. The monochromatic structures are beautiful but make directions difficult. As awesome as it is in the day, Matera is even more magical at night.
We were all excited about the Margia Materana hike. It was the key activity around which the whole trip was based. The hike was about 2 1/2 hours roundtrip and quite steep at some points –moderate difficulty but very high on satisfaction. The wobbly, suspension bridge at the start was a bit nerve-racking. You can see the bridge and much of the trail in the picture below.
There were many caves at the top including one with three entrances that is believed to have been a church. The frescoes date back to the 8th century.
The wide-angle view from the top looking back on Matera is even better than seeing it up close. If you’re unable to hike, there’s a road on the back of the mountain and a parking lot near the top. Taking a bus might not give you the same feeling but it’s sure better than not going at all.
We had a gorgeous day to hike and take in ancient history. It filled me with a humbling sense of glory for my little place in this big world. If those structures could talk they would surely have endless stories of people with their dreams, struggles, and full lives over the centuries; the stories continue today. Matera is more than interesting — it makes you feel humanity.
After the hike we treated ourselves to a spritz, a popular cocktail that’s a mix of proseco, soda water, and one of three bitters. My preference is made with Select (Italian apertif created in the 1920s) which is less sweet than Aperol (orange, Italian apertif made from rhubarb and herbs) but sweeter than Compari (red, Italian apertif made from spices and herbs) and is supposed to be the original.
Leaving Matera, we drove about one hour to the scenic town of Alberobello (which means beautiful tree). Coming into the town, you see the typical “trulli” (plural of “trullo” which is a traditional stone hut in the Apulian region) homes.
The town attracts tourists because it’s full of these picturesque buildings. I was told they became a popular building style because they use local materials and can be quickly disassembled when the tax assessor comes around then can be rebuilt after the fear of being taxed passes. No idea if that’s true but it fits with other things I’ve heard about the relationship between the people and the government.
Alberobello was just right for walking around for a couple hours and popping in to the stores selling things like hand-woven linens, roasted walnuts, and offering a friendly chat.
Our AirBnB for the night was a sweet, two-bedroom trullo in Martina Franca about 20 minutes away. The hosts couldn’t have been nicer. My Italian is limited to a few basic phrases but somehow we managed several pleasant exchanges. Our hostess brought over fresh baked goods when we arrived and again in the morning.
For the evening we went in to the nearby town of Ostuni. There was an open-air festival where we bought hats from an Italian woman who studied in NYC at Fashion Institute of Technology. Attire all over Italy is quite stylish. Even everyday clothing for both men & women is so much more interesting than jeans & T-shirts. I didn’t see even one Italian woman in leggings. And, skinny pants are on the way out while loose-fitting slacks and over-sized blazers are featured. Nice sneakers are worn with everything including dresses. The streets are not appropriate for heels. Closets are small so wardrobes are built on quality, not quantity.
Before leaving Martina Franca the next morning, we toured the royal Martucci Palace in Piazza Roma that is being used for meetings and special events …
then strolled through Piazza Plebiscito with this gorgeous Cathedral. Not unusual, these grand buildings are in the middle of a relatively small town of less than 50,000 people.
Continuing our tour of the southeastern region of Puglia, we stopped in Monopoli for yet another delicious lunch. The restaurant owner/chef came by to check on us and said the tightened economic conditions have been hard on business. We were the only customers during the hour we were there. While American tourism seems to be big, I suppose most tourists stick to the big cities and well-known areas like Rome, Florence, Venice and the Amalfi Coast. After lunch we made the short drive (8 km) to Polignan a Mer.
There’s a statute of Domenico Modugno, the Italian singer made famous by his popular song “Volare,” in a plaza by the beach. He was a native of Polignano a Mer. It’s fun to celebrate both the happy song and something that makes this town unique. Mermaids, dolphins and King Neptune are all fine in a seaside town, if a bit generic, but only this town can claim Domenico Modugno.
After a perfect afternoon by the beach and walking through the pedestrian-only streets, we continued to Bari for our final stop for the night. Time was limited so we didn’t see much of the city except a wonderful, little, pizza place full of locals and the airport the next morning. My pizza was thin crusted with mushrooms and I absolutely ate the whole thing! We joined in singing happy birthday to a 5-year old boy at the next table and I was pleased when they shared birthday cake with us. While this was a simple and inexpensive dinner, it was perfect. Wish I could repeat this dinner once a week.
Back at La Spezia we embarked on seeing as much as possible of the Liguria region (northwest Italy) which is adjacent to Tuscany. I’ve seen Florence and Pisa twice before so, while they’re both wonderful, I skipped them and headed to Cinque Terre, meaning “five lands.” Another UNESCO World Heritage site, Cinque Terre is just west of La Spezia and comprises five villages — Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The footpath connecting them was closed due to mud slides earlier in the week but we took a train to Vernazza and Manarola. When/if I have the brilliant opportunity to return here, I’d love to walk the Azure Trail (Sentiero Azzurro) trail that connects all 5 towns; 7.5 miles (12 kilometers) long and a 2,000 ft (600 meter) elevation change. I can’t imagine living in one of these tiny towns balanced on the cliffs. On the way to Cinque Terre and traveling among the 5 towns, the train passes through tunnels and over rails perched on the edge that make you dizzy if you look down. I didn’t see any cars or roads that might accommodate them but I assume they’re inland and available when needed.
Yes, Cinque Terre is exciting and amazingly picturesque but so are many of the other coastal towns that aren’t full of tourists. Porto Venere is 45 km away and is absolutely delightful in every regard. Well known for being the home and favorite writing spot of Lord Byron, this inlet on the rocky shore is called “Grotta di Lord Byron” for the English poet who drew inspiration from it. If places can inspire creativity, this is surely one the best.
Out on the point, sits Chiesa di San Pietro (St Peter’s), a small, Catholic church built in 1198. It would be a magical place for a wedding. If it’s possible, the air is full of beauty and love. Somehow I breathed more deeply and felt peaceful while standing in it.
Walking along the shore, we took a break at the Grand Hotel for an afternoon spritz and were entertained by an imposing, one-legged pigeon insistent on sharing our peanuts and olives. After all, it’s often the little things you remember.
While every meal has been a culinary delight, dinner at Franceschini in San Terenzo might have been the best. We generally have an apertivo or an appetizer with champagne or prosecco followed by pasta and wine then an entree. Dinner isn’t complete without dessert, a liqueur to aid in digestion, and sometimes a coffee. My friend, Alessandro, is tasting tira misu all over the country in search of the perfect one. All this and the total bill for the three of us was about $60 (actually, Euros). Everywhere we dined, the chefs took great pride in their food and it showed. This is not the land of fast food or drive-through restaurants. Dining together is a cultural tradition. I didn’t gain any weight on this trip; we walked so much it offset the extra calories. The Italian obesity rate is 10%, much less than in the United States which is about 40% according to the National Center for Health Statistics.
On my last day, we started in Sarzana, a lovely town that hosts concerts like Ben Harper in the town square. There’s a big fort and wall with two gates to the old town. The picture below is the Roman Gate and, supposedly, if a person rides a horse straight out the gate for 250 miles he/she will reach Rome.
The cobblestone streets are lined with boutiques and small shops. Some had craftsmen working on-site such as a weaver, leather worker, and baker. The clothing and shoes were of excellent quality and not mass produced. The sales staff was professional and helpful — a sharp contrast to shopping in American malls.
We passed it once without notice then turned around to see the former home of Napoleon Bonaparte; proving once again that I live better than emperors of days gone by. Banished when the National Party was defeated, Napoleon found refuge in Sarzana then in Corsica.
Leaving Sarzana, we drove about 10 km to Lerici, another gorgeous town with a big fort up on a hill overlooking the Mediterranean.
As I write this is sounds like we were racing around from town to town but it didn’t feel that way at all. Each village was essentially complete; designed for safety and community. The next town might be just 5 miles away but it has its own character and charms. We walked up and down streets, stopped for a leisurely lunch, and took our time. There was no agenda or schedule and the only real objective was to enjoy this beautiful country and each other. The easy pace with an emphasis on enjoying life was a unifying theme throughout Italy. For example, restaurants and stores close from 2 PM to 5 PM for lunch and rest with family. If you question why some enterprising cafe owners don’t stay open and get all the business, the answer is always that they don’t need to. They make enough to support themselves and have no desire to work harder.
After Lerici we drove up a crazy, winding road to the very top of a mountain. The small town of Vezzano Ligure is built around a church and monastery. Everything about it is special — the views from the top go on for miles & miles, to mountains in one direction and the sea in another. As lovely as this town is, I saw no tourists and very few people. I also saw no typical tourist places–no hotels or souvenir shops. It’s just a slice of Italian life with its unique history that has evolved into an off-the-beaten path, delightful village.
On the way down from the mountain top, we stopped briefly in Arcola where my host’s father grew up. The big house has been divided and passed on to younger generations. As so many of the big, old homes, it has stayed in the family and serves as a reunion place on weekends and holidays where cousins can play and adults can relax while maintaining familial connections.
I saw plenty of school children but none in uniforms. School hours are from 8 AM to 2 PM. The school doesn’t provide any food, students go home for lunch after school, and books must be purchased. There is no separate bus system for schools; regular buses suffice. Given the socialist government, this surprised me. American schools in our capitalist economy provide much more for students.
Ten days isn’t enough time to experience all of Italy but it’s enough time to give me an idea why people love it so much. The natural beauty, history, and culture are so rich. True, I say this about most places, but I must return to see other parts; perhaps, the Italian Alps or Sardinia next trip. The world is big and I’ve seen such a small part of it.
“You may have the world if I may have Italy” Giuseppe Verdi, Italian opera composer (1813 – 1901)
“The Creator made Italy from designs by Michaelangelo” Mark Twain (1835 – 1910)
September 8, 2023 Quick weekend getaway to attend the Eric Clapton concert on Friday night then back home on Sunday.
I’m acutely aware that we’re losing our great rockers — Tom Petty, Glenn Frey, Christine McVie, David Crosby, John Prine, Tina Turner, Jimmy Buffett; too many to name them all. In the next few years we’re likely to lose a lot more so I took this chance to see a legend — Eric Clapton live at the PPG Auditorium in Pittsburgh. This was a first for me to see both Eric and Pittsburgh. Neither disappointed.
After dropping our bags off at the William Penn hotel, we walked to The Point a beautiful state park where three rivers come together marked with this fun water fountain that shoots way up in the air. It was part of an urban renewal project started in the 1950s that cleaned up the blighted, industrial area. The 36-acre park was completed in 1974 and provides the perfect backdrop for the city. The giant football stadium where the Steelers play is just beyond the park. What felt like a blue collar town, was full of team spirit with a home game on Sunday and black & gold everywhere. Truly, almost everyone, young and old, was sporting a Steelers jersey, hat, or something.
The streets were covered in these colorful insects called spotted lanternflies. An invasive species, they have been the target of a campaign called, “If you see it, stomp it.” Even if they destroy a lot of vegetation, I didn’t feel right killing them and I question the whole campaign.
The weather was fine for walking which is my favorite way to get acquainted with a new place. In addition to both live and dead lanternflies, there was an abundance of street art; a vertable panorama of interesting architecture, sculpture and paintings.
Downtown is surrounded by neighborhoods that are in various stages of gentrification, each with its distinctive vibe including Lawrenceville, South Side Flats, and “the strip” where we stopped in Robert Wholey & Co Seafood Market for their renown fish sandwich and crab chowder. Seriously, we walked over 10 miles both Friday and Saturday. No regrets because we saw a lot, enjoyed the beautiful weather, and got a good feel for the city but we missed the Warhol Museum, the Heinz History Center, the Phipps Conservatory & Botanical Gardens, and the Carnegie Cultural Complex. There’s just too much to see it all in a short weekend.
Walking back from the strip, we passed Agnes Katz Plaza, a park with a 25 foot tall bronze fountain and artistic benches that resemble giant eyes.
The concert Friday night did not disappoint. Clapton’s voice is still strong and clear and his band was rocking! With so many hits, he was bound to skip a few (no “Promises” or “Rock ‘n’ Roll Heart”.) There were quite a few acoustic versions instead of electric, like “Layla,” but at 78-years old he delivered a great show. He had me crying when he sang “Tears in Heaven.” A young fan might not know the story behind the song but I remember well when he wrote it (1992) after the tragic death of his 4-year old son, Conor. That’s a big part of the magic behind a concert with someone like Eric Clapton. We’ve shared life for the past forty years. The songs bring back memories and emotions. Everyone was swaying to “Wonderful Tonight” and, no doubt, we all had flashbacks of dancing with someone special to it over the years. Thank you, Eric. Thanks for sharing your talent and making my life richer for it.
A highlight of my trip to Pittsburgh was the unique experience of riding the inclines, 146-year old cable cars that go the short distance up and down a hill just outside of the downtown area. A ride on either the Duquesne or Monogahela is $2,75 each way.
We went up one, walked across the top of the hill, then rode down the other. Quite a few cafes and restaurants have outdoor patios overlooking the river with excellent views of the city. The views by day and night are equally lovely. I highly recommend dinner at sunset on top so you can watch the city light up.
“Virtue, liberty and independence” Pittsburgh
“The whole world loves American movies, blue jeans, jazz and rock and roll. It is probably a better way to get to know our country than by what politicians or airline commercials represent.” Billy Joel
“I feel wonderful because I see the love light in your eyes. And the wonder of it all is that you just don’t realize how much I love you.” Eric Clapton, “Wonderful Tonight” written for Pattie Boyd in 1976 while waiting for her to get ready to attend Paul McCartney’s annual Buddy Holly party.
I embarked on a spontaneous trip back to Cuba with two girlfriends in early June 2023. Our flights were in and out of Havana so we took a day to tour Old Havana including the Hotel Nacional (shown above) before heading south. Our first AirBnB was a beautiful flat on plaza vieja.
The next day we took a private taxi for the 160-mile drive to Cienfuegos, a UNESCO World Heritage site. It’s unique for its French origin and is known as “the pearl of the south” which is well earned. The French architecture against the Caribbean Ocean was stunning. We walked by blocks of mansions with pastel walls trimmed in ornate white set on neatly landscaped gardens. The town is an early example of good city planning which makes it easy for walking. Our AirBnB, Baron Balbin, was a 5-bedroom palace that has been renovated. The ocean was a few blocks south and the city center was a few blocks north with neatly laid out blocks of homes and businesses in between.
The next morning we got a private taxi for the short trip to Trinidad (83 km). Founded in 1514, it still has cobblestone streets, colonial buildings and much of the charm from centuries ago which contributed to its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Our AirBnB was typically modest and in a great location. We walked all over town as did most everyone. It was rare to see a car. Our host was super sweet but didn’t speak English so she had her American neighbor come by to translate.
The standard of living throughout Cuba, emphasized in Trinidad and small towns, is much lower than anywhere in the U.S. Electricity is unreliable, wifi is rare, homes are small and shared by multi-generations, food is basic, and medical care or medicine is not readily available. I have no reliable information on crime but I always felt safe. People were friendly and welcoming, food was fresh and not processed, and most of the country was natural and unspoiled from pollution or over-development. I don’t expect or want the world to be like America. My concern for Cuba is the lack of personal freedom, lack of freedom of expression, and lack of adherence to a fair rule of law.
The rooftop patio of our AirBnB was my favorite part of the house.
On the first of our two days in Trinidad we found a jeep/taxi to take us to Topes de Collantes, a nature reserve, in the Escambray Mountains. The drive through the mountains was lovely.
We passed almost no one on the steep two-mile hike to Caburni Falls. Swimming in the natural pool was a highlight of the trip for me. The force from the falls was so invigorating and exciting. I was the only person in the water so it felt extra special; the perfect reward for the difficult hike to reach it.
On our second full day at Trinidad we went to Playa Ancon, a beautiful white-sand beach on the Caribbean Ocean just 12 km out of town.
Jumping back in a private taxi the next morning, we returned to Havana for our last night before flying home. Old Havana has so many great restaurants and an abundance of live music. There’s a festive sense in the warm air with smiling people interacting freely. We enjoyed one last, delicious (and very affordable) lobster dinner at our favorite restaurant, Paladar Dona Eutimia in plaza de la catedral.
Cuba is such an easy and enchanting break from life in Virginia. I could definitely return again and would love to explore some of the islands. The challenge is to decide how to spend my available travel days. Exploring new places is my favorite but returning to places I love and sharing them with others is also wonderful. There’s no bad way to travel. For now, “Adios, amigos!”
“There are no foreign lands. It is the traveler only who is foreign.” Robert Louis Stevenson
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list.” Susan Sontag
“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did.” Mark Twain
Kathryn Byler, blog 